Tour
Killiecrankie on a relaxing small
group vacation of my homeland
"
I look forward to showing you my historic
Scotland, as only a native Scot can. "
Killiecrankie is one of the famous names of Scotland,
renowned both for its history and its scenery. The Pass of Killiecrankie
lies three miles north of Pitlochry, and for a mile threads the
deep, steep, thickly-wooded gorge of the Garry, between a spur of
Ben Vrackie (2757 feet) and Tenandry Hill, with the village at the
north end. Through this narrow winding defile, above the rushing
river, run the A 9 highway and the railway to Inverness.
About a mile beyond the Pass, to the north, was
fought in 1689 the famous battle, between the forces of William
of Orange, newly brought to the throne, and the unseated and exiled
James VII and II. General Mackay, a veteran of the foreign wars,
led the government forces, and Graham of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee,
the Jacobites. It is rather strange how popular a hero he has become
in Scottish minds--for he was scarcely popular at the time, his
stern hand at the putting down of the Covenanters, during the preceding
'Killing Times', making his name execrated by many. However, his
looks and the well-known song between them, seem to have metamorphosed
him. 'Bonnie Dundee' won this battle, but fell in the moment of
victory, a stone marking the spot. His dying words are famed. "How
goes the day ?" he gasped, of a man named Johnson, who had
aided him down from his saddle. "Well for King James,"
the other answered. "But I am sorry for your lordship."
The dying Dundee said, "If it is well for him, it matters the
less for me" He did not speak again. Two thousand of the government
troops were killed or captured, for a loss of 900 Highlanders. Nevertheless,
with Dundee's death, the victory was more or less fruitless, and
that Jacobite campaign soon ended.
The Pass, once a dangerous trap for travellers,
and the key to Atholl, is now a popular venue for visitors, and
the National Trust for Scotland, owners of the property, have an
attractive centre here. Towards the north end is the famed Soldier's
Leap, where one of Mackay's fleeing men managed to jump the foaming
cataract between two fearsome rocks, and so escape the pursuing
enemy.
Spanning the river to the south is Bridge of Garry,
recently replaced by a modern structure. This carries the road to
Tummel and Rannoch. Just over the bridge, a small and very steeply-climbing
side-road branches off to the right, to ascend high above the Pass
on the west side, passing the remotely but beautifully sited church
and manse of Tenandry. Although an ancient parish, the present church
was built only in 1836, with seating for 430-- an extraordinary
provision for a place of worship with no centre of population for
miles around. The graveyard is most attractively carved out of the
steep birchwoods.
This high back-road drops as steeply beyond, to rejoin the A 9 by
another bridge, at Killiecrankie village, passing a lofty-sited
dun on the way. But a branch-road continues on up the south side
of the Garry for nearly four miles, coming to a dead-end opposite
Blair Atholl, with which it communicates only by a footbridge. On
the way, this riverside road serves the scattered farms and mansion
of Strathgarry, and the large and inevitably unsightly quarry near
Glackmore. Two fords are marked on the map as crossing the wide
and rushing river; but it would be a bold motorist who attempted
them.
For
the Independent
Traveler to Scotland we also offer help with Airfares, Hotel
Packages, and Rail Travel.
Leave
The Herd Behind With A Small Group Tour of Scotland
All
my small
group tours of Scotland, which often include my native Fife,
are paced for discovery and understanding, not just notching sites.
Each small group is limited to an absolute maximum of 18 people,
with a typical small group being just 6 or 8 people. I prefer to
guide these small groups through Scotland in a relaxing manner,
staying at two or three base locations from which we can visit places
of interest - and not have to move luggage every day.
Tour
Scotland guests tend to be travelers rather than tourists, enjoying
seeing behind the tourist facade, while visiting with " locals "
and seeing sites not normally seen by the regular tourist. Many
group members visit Scotland to trace their Scottish ancestry; others
to golf or fish; most come to simply enjoy the beautiful scenery,
historic buildings and gardens, and most of all, to meet and enjoy
the people of Scotland. My Tours of Scotland can be best described
as being " couthy. " It's a Scottish word meaning " gentle."
What
goes into an unforgettable Tour of Scotland ? Lots of great scenery,
for sure. Perhaps also a smidgen of something you can't quite put
your finger on, but nevertheless creates a lasting impression. Maybe
a piper playing in the pub; perhaps a conversation with a local;
a shepherd working his dogs; fishermen landing their catch. All
my previous group members have their own lists of defining moments.
I wonder what yours will be ?
Any
time from April through October is a really good time to Tour Scotland.
Spring and early summer are my particular favorites. Forests, fields
and glens offer a wonderful array of colors during that time of
year, while the long Northern days of sunshine let you get out and
enjoy it. There is also no shortage of things to do as all the best
attractions are already open, and are far more relaxed away from
the mid-summer crowds, whilst in the cities the Arts season is in
full swing. But whenever you
visit, you're always guaranteed a warm welcome in my Scotland. June
through August is the best time to attend Highland Games on a Tour
Scotland tour.
Here's
a built by a couple of Tour Scotland members from last year. I think
you will find the site interesting and informative.
A
Journey Through Scotland. For my latest
Tours of Scotland photos click: May
2003 or Loch
Ness.
Tour
Scotland group members will have the opportunity to shop, play golf,
visit local pubs and simply go for walks and enjoy local sights
and sounds. Let me know your reasons for wishing to Tour Scotland,
and see if I can best fit your needs. If you would like to visit
independently, or as part of a small group tour, or on another Tour
of Scotland, please e-mail me:
E-Mail
me Today
Sandy Stevenson All rights reserved 2000.
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